A Luxury Detail - The Gusset

A Luxury Detail - The Gusset

"Men’s does not swing radically from season to season in the way that women’s fashion does. Men’s wear buyers and editors, they’re excited by a change in the lapel. They are excited by a change in a shoulder or by the use of a new fabric, by very subtle things. That’s what I want people to be looking at — the details." Tom Ford
Mr. Ford is telling an absolute truth as details really make a difference when a brand targets a sophisticated audience. For a shirt brand as ULV, where the customer knows very well what he wants, the construction of the shirt alone would mean nothing without the beautiful details worked with the art of precision.
Historically, a gusset is a piece of material sewn into a garment for enlarging or strengthening the garment. It has been used in clothing since centuries ago as the below picture shows.
Late medieval shirt (15th century) with gussets in the seams at shoulder, underarm, and hem. (Source Wikipedia)
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In ULV's case the gusset has more of an esthetic purpose. It covers the end of the side seam when is meeting with the rounded-shaped hem and it gives balance to the whole lower part of the garment. I tested few shapes and sizes before deciding for the hexagonal shape with the actual size. This specific gusset is in perfect harmony with the width of the side seam and the hem.
ULV hexagonal gusset is in harmony with the side seam and the hem
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This delicate detail is cut in a small block and each single piece is shaped by hand with the hot iron. Afterwards, the gusset-couple (as they are 2 per shirt) is attentively paired with the shirt and send to be sewn by "golden hands". The worker really needs the eye and very good manual skills for fixing the gussets by millimeter as they are on ULV shirts.
A ULV shirt is a detailed-oriented garment. And I do not consider details just for the sake of them. To put it simply, a ULV without the hexagon gusset, would not be a ULV shirt.